Grammostola pulchripes caresheet

Grammostola pulchripes caresheet 

G. Pulchripes, as already mentioned, makes an excellent choice as a first tarantula species.  They are generally low maintenance with no special care requirements, and will thrive given the standard husbandry for generally arid, terrestrial species so long as they are given an enlcosure large enough for such a big tarantula.

An adult Chaco Golden Knee will require a large enclosure such as a large plastic or acrylic tank, or a 10 – 15 gallon aquarium with a suitable top.  Provide a deep, fairly dry substrate (4 – 5 inches of coconut coir, or dry potting soil), plenty of ventilation, and a secure lid.  A large piece of cork bark will serve as a suitable hiding place (half a coconut shell won’t be large enough for an adult!), and a large shallow water dish should be provided at one end of the enclosure which can be overfilled to dampen the substrate slightly at one end of the tank.
A diet of large crickets, cockroaches and locusts is ideal.  But as with all tarantulas, feed prey items of a suitable size – no larger than the spider’s abdomen.


One of the attractions of G. pulchripes for some people is their tolerance to being handled.  It’s true that this species in general tend to be docile and fairly tolerant to handling, but remember that every individual tarantula is different and that this species can be fast.  While its venom is mild and this species rarely bites, the fangs on a spider this large are more than capable of doing real damage.  At the same time, a fall from even a very small height would easily kill a tarantula of this weight so handle carefully, only if you understand and accept the risks to both yourself and your tarantula.

Lasiodora klugi caresheet

Lasiodora klugi caresheet

Habitat: Most of Brazil has high annual average temperatures, above 22°C (72°F). Only in the South and in the highest elevations does the average fall below this.

A tropical wet climate characterizes much of northern Brazil, with abundant rainfall and little or no dry season. Temperatures average 25°C (77°F). Rainfall averages about 2,200 mm (about 90 in) a year. Over central Brazil rainfall is more seasonal, characteristic of a savanna climate. Eighty percent of the rain falls in summer (October through March). Here rainfall averages about 1,600 mm (about 60 in) a year. In the interior Northeast, seasonal rainfall is even more extreme. The semiarid region receives less than 800 mm (30 in) of rain, which falls in a period of two or three months.

In the Southeast the tropical climate is modified by elevation, with a winter average temperature below 18°C (64°F) and an average rainfall of about 1,400 mm (about 55 in) concentrated in summer. The South has subtropical conditions, with average temperatures below 20°C (68°F) and cool winters.

Temp/humidity: 75°-80° /65%-75%  humidity  I keep this species temperature at 78° degrees and the humidity at 70%.

Enclosure: This is a opportunistic burrower. As a spiderling, I used a vial that would allow at least three inches (3") of substrate for burrowing. As sub-adult-adult I use a terrarium that will allow at least four inches (4") of substrate

Substrate: I use four inches of substrate. (I use a mixture of peat moss, vermiculite, coconut fiber and dirt for firmness, as the substrate).

Retreat/Hide: Place a bark for a starter burrow hide

Food Consumption: I fed my new born spiderlings fruit flies. When they reached 1/2" I introduced baby crickets. My adult Bahia Scarlet, I give two (2) one-inch B. dubia roaches or 10 adult crickets weekly. This species is a great eater, and attacks its prey with a vengeance. I also give her two (2) pinkie-mouse or a house gecko once a year for variety.

Water Requirements: I keep a water dish in the tank. I have never seen mine drink. I also dampen one-half of the substrate in the terrarium by overflowing the water dish, than I allow it to dry out.

Growth Rate: The growth rate for this species is medium-fast. With proper heating and feeding it may attain a leg length of four inches.

Adult Size: This species can grow to a leg length of seven (7) to eight (8) inches

Temperament: This is a bold tarantula, but not aggressive as an adult. It may use a defensive pose, but would rather retreat than stand and fight.

Acanthoscurria geniculata - Giant White-Knee Caresheet

Acanthoscurria geniculata - Giant White-Knee caresheet

Housing

White-knee's are terrestrial spiders, but not obligate burrowers, so require a largish tank, with a good amount of floor surface area, and a variety of surfaces on which to sit. Substrate can be peat moss or potting soil, mixed with a small amount of vermiculite, and does not need to be very deep, assuming you provide a large, dark hide, for the spider to use as a burrow. They do climb, but because they are so bulky they often fall, so it is vital that you do not provide too much height, or sharp objects that the spider could land on if it falls.
Temperatures should be around 75F, with humidity Ok at around 60%. A large water bowl will be webbed over, but used often.

Feeding

Geniculata eat like horses, and are one of the few types of spider that it is possible to overfeed. For adults, and sub adults, 1 large cockroach every 2 weeks is ample, though they will happily eat more if powerfed. Sometimes they will continue to eat through pre-moult, unlike nearly every other genus of spider.It is often difficult to remove prey boluses from the tanks because they tend to web them thoroughly to the tank floor. They are partial to maggots (and lots of them), which cannot burrow through their webbing.

Temperament

These spiders definitely have attitude, and will not always feel the need to run away from a disturbance. Sometimes, they will turn and face it head on, and threat - other times, they will casually flick some hairs, and then ignore it. The best bet is to leave them alone until they have calmed down, and restrict tank intrusion to the bare minimum.
The urticating hairs these animals so readily flick are amongst the MOST urticating of any spider, and leave rashes on whichever body parts come into contact with them, which itch like nobody's business. Strangely, it seems that the more contact I have with these spiders, the more sensitive to the hairs I become, so gloves are sometimes needed for tank changes these days.

Notes

Although the venom of this species is not very strong, the fangs are big enough in adults to cause medically significant damage should they bite, and the animals are big and powerful enough to get their own way. Sometimes, I must resort to cupping the spider in order to perform tank maintentance safely around her.

Brachypelma albopilosum Care sheet

Brachypelma albopilosum care sheet

Temp/humidity: 70°-85° (21.1°-29.4°C) degrees/65%-80%  humidity; I keep this species temperature at 80° (26.6°C) and the humidity at 70%. I wet one half side of the terrarium where the water dish is then allow it to dry out completely.

Enclosure: Use a spiderling vial that will allow at least three inches (7.62cm) of substrate for burrowing and four inches (10.16cm) as sub-adult-adult.

Substrate: three inches (7.62cm) of substrate in vial and four inches (10.16cm) in terrarium. (I use a mixture of peat moss, vermiculite, coconut fiber and dirt for firmness, as the substrate).

Retreat/Hide: Place a bark for a starter burrow hide This is a opportunistic burrower. When they reach  three inches (7.62cm), they stay out in the open more than in their hide, which make them a good display tarantula

Food Consumption: I first fed her fruit flies, than when she reached 1/2" (1.27cm) I introduced baby crickets. Now I give my Curly Hair (2) B. dubia roaches or seven (7) - adult crickets weekly. This specie is a excellent eater.

Water Requirements: I keep a water dish in the tank. I have never seen mine drink.

Growth Rate: The growth rate of this species is medium. I received two of my girls as freebies spiderlings of 1/8" (0.3175cm in size. After the first year they had grown to one and a half inch (3.82cm). With constant feeding and temperatures in the low to mid 80's, they can reach a size of three inches  (7.62cm) within three years.

Adult Size: I read that they grow to six (15.24cm) inches. After nine years mine are a robust six and one-half inches (16.51cm)

Temperament: This is a docile species. It has never kicked hair at me nor given a threat pose.

Grammostola rosea Care sheet

Grammostola rosea Care sheet

General Care

Feeding

A live invertebrate prey item of approximately half of the spiders body length is required. You can choose to feed crickets, locusts, mealworms, or even cockroaches. Wingless fruit flies are also a good option for feeding spiderlings. Approximately 4 or 5 appropriately sized food items should be offered per week, they can be offered all in one go but if they have not been consumed within 24 hours they should be removed and you should try feeding again in a weeks time.

Handling

Handling of any tarantula is not without risks, they all have the potential to bite and are all venomous. The strength of the venom is not enough to kill you but is certainly not pleasant. Your Chilean Rose does not need or want to interact with you and will gladly spend all of its time just going about its business undisturbed. That being said, you can, if you wish, handle your spider. Chilean Rose Tarantulas are usually very tolerant of handling but you ignore the warning signs at your own peril.

For starters, if you handle your Chilean Rose and are scared or nervous it is very likely to end up with injury to either you or your spider... or both of you!

To handle your spider and to minimise the risks the best way is to have a paint brush or another soft item available to gently push your Chilean Rose. Now, place your hand palm up so that your spider’s head is facing you, if it shows any threatening signs, such as rearing up with its front legs... STOP, the spider clearly does not want to to be handled. Next, using the paint brush you need to gently prod the abdomen or rear feet of your spider, you will either see the spider walk forwards, rear up or spray urticating hairs. If your Chilean Rose has now walked onto your hand you should lift your hand slowly out of the enclosure and allow the spider to walk from hand to hand. Keep your movements slow and try not to breathe on the spider, this should help to keep your Chilean Rose calm and not spook it. Until you grow in confidence it would be advisable to keep your hands close to a table or bed so that if you drop it you will lessen any possible damage caused.

This website will not take any responsibility for injury caused to either you or your Chilean Rose, you handle it at your own risk.

Molting

To grow, your spider grows a new skin below its current exoskeleton, when the spider has grown sufficiently it will need to break out of its old exoskeleton. This is called molting. At this time your spider will show less interest in its food and will appear to be being very lazy. You will also probably see your spider laying on its back, it is VERY important that you do not touch your Chilean Rose when it is laying like this, you also need to remove all uneaten prey items from the enclosure as gently and quietly as you possibly can. The spider will eventually split open its old exoskeleton and wriggle its way out, the spider’s nice new exoskeleton will still be very soft and you will more than likely see it just sitting still as it hardens. Only remove the shed exoskeleton when your Chilean Rose is again actively walking around its enclosure or has returned to its hide. You should also not offer any food items to your Chilean Rose for a week as your spider’s skin and fangs will still be rather soft so it will not be able to eat.